The Year of Return - Accra, Ghana
I have returned, and I am forever changed.
My friend Archel mentioned that she was traveling to Accra,Ghana for The Year of Return - I had no clue what that was, but I heard “Africa” and “group trip” and knew I had to be there. I HAVE BEEN WAITING FOREVER to travel to Africa, and I wasn’t going to miss out. But, I had no idea how difficult the journey would be, and I’m not talking about the plane ride.
Getting immunizations and visas on a short timeline did a number on my anxiety - I could have given up numerous times, but I kept pushing and pushing until I was LITERALLY on the plane to Accra. It was a struggle, but I had made it. Good thing I slept on the plane, because Accra was a non-stop journey.
The Year of Return was a year-long celebration in 2019, marking the 400th year since the first African slaves arrived in Jamestown, Virginia. It was pilgrimage back to West Africa where we immersed ourselves in our heritage and connected with our past, present and future.
To travel to a place, surrounded by the most beautiful people, delicious food and tropical weather - it was truly a DREAM COME TRUE! I loved so much about my time in Accra - check out a few favorite moments, below:
Favorite Meal -
Chez ClariSse / Mama Africa
I have tried to put this meal into words, and I barely can. Grilled chicken, fish, jollof rice, acheke (cassava), plantain, the best pepper sauces - it was all too good for words.
This was the meal I had been waiting for the whole trip! After you place your order, the waiter comes by with a jug of water, a big bowl, and what looks like dish detergent. We used this wash our hands, so we could eat our meal with our hands. This was no common dinner - check it out in the video below:
Night Cap
After dinner, stop by Republic Bar close by and try the world famous Kokoroko - it is a blended cocktail with hibiscus and rum, and maybe something else - consistently the best drink that we had during our stay. 10/10 recommend!
Arts Center - Accra
I did not get any pictures here, but this is the best place to go and get souvenirs in Accra. I might have spent $50 USD and got SO many different bracelets, keychains, a purse, a tshirt, serving ware and a lot more. Don’t sleep on this market!
The Slave Castles of Cape Coast
During the Year of Return festivities, I kept hearing that I needed to make a trip to the slave castles of Cape Coast. At first, I didn’t jump at this opportunity. The idea of traveling 3 hours outside of the city to have an extremely emotional moment with near strangers did not sound like vacation to me - no ma’am! But, the more I thought about why we were all in Ghana in the first place, I decided to go. And the experience ended up being much different than I expected.
As soon as I saw our tour bus, I knew how the journey to Elmina Castle in Cape Cost would be - a little hot, uncomfortable, bumpy, but so fascinating. I stayed awake the full three hours as we passed village after village filled with beautiful, smiling people. I wanted to stop for a second so we could meet them - I was curious about what their homes looked like on the inside. And goats. I saw a lot of goats on the ride there.
After we arrived at the coast, we went on a tour of the slave castle. Being from the American south, I have heard so many stories about the slave trade, but nothing could compare to seeing where the slaves - my ancestors - were kept in the smallest of quarters, where they had to eat, defecate and suffer daily. Many of them died right there in the quarters. We then went to the door of no return - this was a massive door, that when opened, leads to the cape where slaves would be loaded onto ships and they never returned. None of them. My mind could not even comprehend the sins that were committed in that place. But as the doors opened to the cape, we were greeted by the colorful costumes of the local children, the bright fishing nets and smiling local vendors selling this and that. The people of Cape Coast truly turned a point of tragedy to one of treasure - all of the tension I had from the tour was instantly released in that moment.
A have had a few weeks to reflect on my experience at the Cape Coast. What strikes me the most was the attempt to erase the ancestry of West African people by forcing them into slavery - there was no regard for the culture of West Africa or for the descendants that would affected by this enslavement. 400 years later at that. But our ancestors would be beyond elated to see so many beautiful, smart, successful black people assemble for the Year of Return celebrations, and how far we all have come. It is a testament to what barriers can be broken by those aligned with a higher purpose.
Ghana is a beautiful place with so much to offer, and I suggest that you check it out for yourself. No matter what you have heard about Africa before, I promise, it’s better than you can even imagine.
Have you ever been to Ghana? Or West Africa? If so, share your favorite places to visit in the comments, below!